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Photo: Michael Troutman/www.dmtimaging.com
  • By Cheryl Crabtree

Artists and writers flocked to Carmel-by-the-Sea (aka Carmel), just south of Monterey on California’s Central Coast,  in the early 1900s, leaving an indelible impact on the town. Today’s Carmel is an incredibly charming, upscale village with more than a hundred restaurants and galleries and a gazillion shops. It also has 60 courtyards, many with cobblestones — hence the city requires a permit if you wear high heels. Carmel is also one of the dog-friendliest towns in the nation. 

The best way to explore Carmel is on foot or bike, and this itinerary starts off with lots of options for doing so. Park near Carmel Plaza and go to the visitor center on the second floor to get your bearings and pick up old-fashioned maps. There are no street addresses — everyone gets around by finding cross streets, for example, “on Junipero, between 4th and 5th,” so it’s helpful to have a visual portrayal of the one-square-mile town that’s bigger than a phone.

Carmel Beach, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Stationæry, San Carlos Street, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Carmel Belle, Ocean Avenue, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Mad Dogs & Englishmen Bike Shop Carmel, CA, Mission Street, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Carmel Walks, Ocean Avenue, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Carmel Food Tours, San Carlos Street, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Carmel Art Tours, between Dolores &, Lincoln Street, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Robinson Jeffers Tor House Foundation, Ocean View Avenue, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Carmel Mission Basilica Museum, Rio Road, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Scheid Vineyards Tasting Room, 7th Avenue, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Casanova, 5th Avenue, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

The Pocket, 6th Avenue, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Cypress Inn, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Carmel Garden Inn, 4th Ave and, Torres Street, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA, USA

Before Breakfast in Monterey Bay, Carmel & Pebble Beach

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Carmel Beach

Start your day with a leisurely stroll on the white sands of scenic, dog-friendly Carmel Beach, at the foot of Ocean Avenue.

Best Places for Breakfast in Monterey Bay, Carmel & Pebble Beach

Carmel Belle

The cozy, casual Carmel Belle serves organic, locally-sourced dishes. Traditional breakfast dishes, juices, smoothies, coffee. Order the green eggs & ham with arugula-herb puree, or a breakfast burrito or sandwich for a delicious start to your day. Dine indoors or on the patio.

Stationaery

Elegantly presented comfort food is the hallmark of Stationaery, an all-day brunch and coffee shop with a takeout window in San Carlos Square. Scrambles, ceviche, rice salads, French toast, lobster rolls — the menu roams wide.

Best Things To Do in the Morning in Monterey Bay, Carmel & Pebble Beach

Tour Carmel this morning without a car! You have several options for guided tours. In addition to Mad Dogs & Englishmen e-bike tours and Carmel Walks walking tours, both highlighted below, and Carmel Food Tours (see lunch), also consider guided Carmel Art Tours, which take you to four to six of Carmel’s numerous galleries. If you’re there on a Saturday, try to book a tour at the famous Tor House, former home of poet Robinson Jeffers.

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Photo by Michael Troutman

Carmel Walks

Join a knowledgeable Carmel Walks guide on a walking tour to explore the hidden courtyards, secret passageways, verdant gardens, and fascinating architecture of Carmel-by-the-Sea. The tour lasts approximately 2 hours.

Explore Carmel on an E-Bike

Rent an e-bike or a sidecar, or join  a guided tour with Mad Dogs and Englishmen, in the heart of town on Ocean Avenue. Tour choices include a 2.5-hour cruise around town, a longer trek along 17-mile Drive in Pebble Beach, and a mountain tour in Carmel Valley.

Best Places for Lunch in Monterey Bay, Carmel & Pebble Beach

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Photo by Cheryl Crabtree

La Bicyclette

Unpretentious, European-style La Bicyclette evokes the Belgian countryside indoors and out on the patio. It serves wood-fired pizzas and locally sourced dishes; the menu changes weekly. Try the gnocchi, the daily specials, and housemade pastas.

Carmel Food Tours

If you book a spot with Carmel Food Tours, you’re treated to five or six food or drink tastings — enough to sate most folks for lunch. Highly recommend the Classic Food Tour (3 hours), and Bikes, Bites, and Bevs, which combines a 2.5-hour Carmel bike tour of the town and a trek to 17-Mile Drive, followed by a 2-hour food tour in Carmel.

Best Things To Do in the Afternoon in Monterey Bay, Carmel & Pebble Beach

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Carmel-by-the-Sea Wine Walk

Download a free mobile guide that gives you access to special deals at wine tasting rooms throughout Carmel. Just show your phone to tasting room staff to receive discounts and special offers like appetizer plates to accompany your tasting flight.

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Photo: Michael Troutman/www.dmtimaging.com

Carmel Mission

Carmel Mission was one of the most important in the entire 21-mission system in California. It was originally founded in 1770 at the presidio in Monterey, but moved here near the Carmel River the next year. It was once headquarters for the entire Alta California mission system, and its museums house many fine pieces of Spanish Colonial art and artifacts, plus California’s first college library. The stone Basilica Church is a national historic landmark. Displays in other galleries tell the stories of mission history and life and the massive mission restoration project completed in 1936. Stroll in the gardens to view California poppies and other native plants.

Best Places for Dinner in Monterey Bay, Carmel & Pebble Beach

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Photo by Cheryl Crabtree

Casanova Restaurant

Owned and operated by a family with Belgian roots, romantic Casanova recreates the casual, intimate European bistro experience, where family and friends commune over several courses of fresh, farm-style food (try the spinach gnocchi or duck confit), nurtured by art, music, and a bottle of wine. The restaurant includes an outdoor fountain patio and three dining rooms, including Van Gogh’s Table — the very same table at which Vincent Van Gogh ate his daily meals while living in Auvers Sur-Oise, France. (Call the restaurant for seating availability.)

The Pocket

In surf culture, the pocket is the sweet, perfect space in a tube that leads to a longer ride. The Pocket restaurant in downtown Carmel strives to be that perfect spot, with great cocktails and wines, an eclectic Cal-Ital menu, and a lively vibe.

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Best Places to Stay in Monterey Bay, Carmel & Pebble Beach

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Courtesy Cypress Inn

Cypress Inn

A haven for pooches and humans, Cypress Inn, in a landmark 1929 building, epitomizes upscale, pet-friendly digs for those who consider their furry companions family members who deserve the same treatment (or close) as their parents and siblings. Animal rights supporter and famed actress Doris Day co-owned the lodge for more than 20 years.

Carmel Garden Inn

It’s an easy walk to Carmel restaurants and shops from this comfy, charming bed and breakfast with beautifully maintained gardens. The individually decorated rooms all have woodburning fireplaces, and rates include breakfast.

After Dark in Monterey Bay, Carmel & Pebble Beach

Sunset Center

Catch a live performance at this historic theater. The venue hosts a variety of shows, including concerts, ballets, and plays

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