This is one lofty perch. No matter the time of day, the Big Island’s center is weighty with possibilities. This is an extraordinary experience, from sea level to mesmerizing celestial views atop Mauna Kea in Hawaii. The summit, a haven for international astronomers, offers crystal clear, light pollution-free views of the galaxy. Prepare to be enthralled and captivated at one of the world’s premier astronomical viewing sites.
Make time to explore during the day, when silence is deafening and you dream a dozen words that describe the sound of the wind.
Make time to explore at night, when the velvety dark skies yield near-perfect conditions for pondering the inexplicable questions — about what life, if any, resides in deep space.
Mauna Kea, Hawaii, USA
Imiloa Astronomy Center, Imiloa Place, Hilo, HI, USA
Maunakea Visitor Information Station, Mauna Kea Access Road, Hilo, HI, USA
Best Things To Do in the Morning in The Big Island
Saddle Road
It takes about 75 to 90 minutes to drive across Saddle Road, and it will save you about 20 minutes versus going along the Hamakua Coast. I’m an explorer at heart, though, and think the Hamakua Coast is beautiful, hence the itinerary.
You can simply drive across Saddle Road and admire Mauna Kea from the emptiness of the road. Since little vegetation survives (much less thrives) along this seemingly desolate road, you’ll find yourself looking for the world in a patch of lichen. Or you have a few choices about how far to go and how to get there. (See the afternoon.)
Bird watchers flock to the Hakalau Forest (which may or may not be open), on Saddle Road just east of Summit Road, an amazing national wildlife refuge. Although you must secure a permit and access code to get through the gate, it’s worth it if you’re searching for rare and endangered species like the nukupu‘u, the akiapola‘au, and the alala.
Best Things To Do in the Afternoon in The Big Island
Mauna Kea & Visitor Information Station
You don’t need a four-wheel drive to reach the Onizuka International Astronomy Visitor Center, named for Hawai‘i’s astronaut who died in the Challenger explosion. The center is open 9 AM–9 PM daily. After dark, there are free stargazing programs. Check about stargazing opportunities well in advance of your visit. Acclimate to the altitude here (elevation 9200 feet) and learn about the mountain’s geology and its significance to native Hawaiian culture. Spend about two hours exploring the area before proceeding to the summit.
You can drive to the summit, weather permitting if you have your own four-wheel drive (an AWD doesn’t count). Why 4WD? The air is too thin to adequately cool a vehicle’s brakes upon descent. It’s about 8 miles, ascends another 5,000 feet, and takes about 45 minutes. Plan to spend about three hours on the adventure. Follow the serious rules of the road. Along the way, the topography morphs into a moonlike landscape. It’s no wonder the Apollo astronauts trained here. Breathe deeply (you probably won’t be able not to!) to get enough oxygen.
Thirteen telescopes, operated by NASA and countries from around the world, crown the summit. Since this rarefied atmosphere is practically completely free from clouds, dust, and light pollution, and since it sits so close to the equator, almost 90 percent of the stars in the universe are visible from here. It gives a whole new meaning and dimension to the notion of stargazing.
Atop the summit, you can visit the Subaru Telescope for a 30-minute tour. Book well in advance.
You can visit a model of the world’s largest telescope, the Keck Telescope, operated by the University of California and the California Institute of Technology. You also get an astonishing impression of Mauna Kea’s neighbor, Mauna Loa, and Maui’s Mount Haleakala. It’s an impression that will remain indelibly imprinted on your psyche for years to come.
Although you can’t see it from Summit Road, the glacial Lake Waiau sits at 13,000 feet. It’s only half a mile off Saddle Road and quite worth stopping; ask for directions from the visitor’s center.
For a deeper dive into the cosmos vis-a-vis Hawaiʻi, visit the Institute for Astronomy (University of Hawaiʻi ).
*THAT SAID, most people will visit on a commercial tour. I’ve always come with Hawaiʻi Forest & Trail.
Bonus Pro Tips
Before getting too dreamy: It never hurts to check weather conditions. Twenty-four hours prior to summiting, drink plenty of water, try to limit your caffeine and alcohol intake, and try to limit (or stop) smoking. The visitor’s center sits at a lofty 9,300 feet, while the summit tops off at 13,796 feet. The air is pretty thin between the visitor’s center and the summit, where there’s 40 percent less oxygen than at sea level. Pregnant women, children under age 16, and anyone with heart or serious health problems should not go farther than the visitor’s center. Scuba divers should wait at least 24 hours from their last dive. Wear lots of sunscreen and be aware of altitude sickness and dizziness. If you’re heading up on your own, bring all the warm clothing you brought to Hawai‘i; the summit averages 30 degrees Fahrenheit, and it’s windy. Don’t overexert yourself at the summit, and don’t be macho.
More great science: If you are headed to Hilo (see my itinerary), don’t miss the ‘Imiloa: Astronomy Center of Hawai‘i (above). Since it opened in late 2005, ‘Imiloa, which translates as exploring new knowledge, has become one of the hottest tickets in the state. Consider budgeting two to four hours here with or without children. Part of the University of Hawai‘i Hilo campus, this 40,000-square-foot gallery houses hundreds of exhibits that relate Mauna Kea and the exploration of astronomy to Hawaiian culture. Billed as a voyage through time and space, the interactive exhibits and planetarium shows educate, inspire, and elucidate mysteries held dear to all of humanity. Primarily funded by NASA, the architecturally arresting center sits on 9 acres of UH’s Science and Technology Park.
