Beautiful Burford in West Oxfordshire is a stunning introduction to the Cotswold Hills, 18 miles from Oxford on the A40. It’s literally as if you leave one world behind and enter another. Driving down the steep, tree-lined High Street past ancient stone houses, shops and pubs, the town is spread out before you with glimpses of the fields beyond.
Burford is always busy, but there are some idyllic spots and walks along the peaceful River Windrush flowing past the lower end of town and on through some of England’s loveliest countryside. There’s shopping of course, at antiques and indie shops, and at one of the Cotswolds‘ most loved homewares, food and garden shopping centres, the Burford Garden Company.
Huffkins Burford, High Street, Burford, UK
Lynwood & Co Burford, High Street, Burford, UK
Burford House, High Street, Burford, UK
The Angel at Burford, Witney Street, Burford, UK
Burford Garden Company, Shilton Road, Burford, UK
Swinbrook, Burford, UK
Asthall, Burford, UK
The Swan Inn, Swinbrook, Burford, UK
The Maytime Inn, Asthall, Burford, UK
Best Places for Breakfast in The Cotswolds
Huffkins
Craft bakery Huffkins specialises in handmade baked goods for its bakeries, cafes and tea rooms in and around the Cotswolds including Burford, Stratford-upon-Avon, and Moreton-in Marsh. For breakfast choose croissants, pancakes or freshly baked Huffkin rolls filled with bacon or pork and sage sausage with a choice of add-ons.
Lynwood & Co Burford
With beginnings as jam and chutney business in Australia, Lynwood & Co brings Australian cafe culture to the Cotswolds with a string of seven cafes. Breakfast favourites include sourdough sandwiches and melts. Try the “Reuben” melt or “Applewood Smoked Cheddar” melt with salami and Lynwood’s Original Sweet Pepper relish.
Best Things To Do in the Morning in The Cotswolds
Haunting tales at St John the Baptist
Parking at the lower end of town you are close to St John the Baptist Church with its impressive spire and fascinating interior including the standout Tansley tomb. The story goes that Lawrence Tansley, a lord and judge, was so mean to the local people that the church refused to install a memorial to him after his death in 1628. His wife had other ideas and had the large tomb built in St John’s anyway. Their daughter, Elizabeth Cary, seen here, penned “The Tragedy of Miriam” in 1613. The Tansleys were so hated that locals burned effigies of them on the tomb every year and the pair were said to haunt Burford in a burning carriage, stopped only by a priest capturing their souls in a bottle and setting it in the nearby River Windrush. Quite a tale. Cromwell’s army was imprisoned here, too.
Retail therapy, old meets new
Enjoy Burford’s High Street, lined with shops, cafes, inns, and antique shops such as Antiques at The George, with three floors of antiques. Also lose yourself in the Madhatter Bookshop and follow your nose to the Cotswold Cheese Shop. For a contemporary taste of the Cotswolds head up to the Burford Garden Company, a large shopping complex bursting with desirables. Yes, this inviting place has garden plants, bulbs and garden must-haves, but it also has a gorgeous range of homewares, cashmere throws, rugs, cushions, pottery and tableware. There’s a decadent and colourful food section, kitchen and dining items, clothes, cards, and all kinds of decorative pieces. It’s a showcase of the ‘modern Cotswolds’, a place where locals shop.
Best Places for Lunch in The Cotswolds
So close to Burford yet off the beaten path, visit the little villages of Swinbrook and Asthall. Linked by a lane or a walk across the fields between them, each has signature Cotswold cottages and its own great pub. I find the Swan at Swinbrook very romantic and, while I’ve dined there many times, I’d love to stay on a weekend getaway. Asthall is a village built around its lovely manor house, once home to the famed Mitford sisters whose collective history features strongly in the area.
The Swan Inn at Swinbrook
In a gorgeous setting beside the River Windrush, enjoy cosy dining spaces, garden tables and traditional Cotswold dining. Sandwiches, and snacks like chestnut mushroom Welsh rarebit are available at lunchtime. Seasonal menu may feature starters including stilton souffle, Wye Valley asparagus or burrata with Isle of Wight tomatoes. Mains deliver roast Cornish sole, or Shetland mussels, or chicken shawama with fattoush salad. Desserts, sorbets, cheeseboard.
Best Things To Do in the Afternoon in The Cotswolds
Step back in time in Swinbrook
The lanes are narrow, but the experience is rewarding especially if you walk around to see the sights of this long and lovely village, complete with its own cricket pitch. St Mary’s Church has fascinating tiered effigies to the Fettiplace family, and the graves and headstones of the Mitford family who lived at Asthall Manor for a time. Four of the sisters are buried in the churchyard and there are dedications to Nancy, Diana and Unity. The Swan Inn has many intriguing photographs of the Mitford family on its interior walls.
Amble to Asthall
Across the road from the Swan Inn is a stile, clamber over and walk across the fields, following the footpath signs to the village of Asthall with Asthall Manor as its centrepiece. The 1.4 mile hike takes around 30 minutes and you can walk back to Swinbrook along the lane. Elizabethan Asthall Manor isn’t usually open to the public, but the lovely 12th century church is and you can see the manor from the churchyard. The manor was home to the Mitford sisters; Nancy Mitford wrote “Love in a Cold Climate” here.
Best Places for Dinner in The Cotswolds
The Maytime Inn
A la carte, pub classics, and pizzas in the garden – the Maytime pleases everyone and is uber-popular with locals for Sunday lunch. From the restaurant/bar menu, start with a Cornish crab tart or goat curd with hazelnut, green apple, and truffle honey. Share meat or fish boards, order steaks or a beetroot risotto. Be tempted by a wild boar burger with comte cheese, chilli jam and fries. Lavender panacotta goes down a treat as does cherry crumble with lemon ice cream.
Burford House Hotel
I like that this bar and restaurant menu heads Mediterranean for many of its mains and small plates to share. Think Greek mezze, grilled octopus with roast chickpeas to start. Mains of aubergine moussaka, beef souvlaki kebabs or grilled tuna steak with a Tuscan bean stew. Beef bourgignon or spaghetti carbonara if you’re in the mood. Small plates of hummus, crispy fried squid – yes, please.
Bonus Pro Tips
This beautiful part of Oxfordshire is made for walks and rambles, check out the Burford local walks route map.