This lush and rural Hawaii landscape, once undulating with fields of sugarcane, now grows diverse agricultural crops — from macadamia nuts and specialty vegetables for four-star restaurants to papayas and pot (pakalolo). Along the way, the Big Island panoramas include as many open and rolling fields as dense pockets of vegetation, ravines, and sea cliffs.
A few miles east of Waimea (see my itinerary for more info), take Old Mamalahoa Highway, mauka, off Hwy. 19. This old road runs parallel to Hwy. 19 and is more intimately connected with the rolling hills and ranchland that surround it. The arid ranching country eventually gives way to the tropical luxuriance of the Waipi‘o Valley, one of the state’s most remote and mystical, and mysterious places. There aren’t many places to stay or eat along the way, but the quaint and sleepy Honoka‘a makes a pleasant stop. Don’t miss Akaka Falls, which offers a big scenic bang for a relatively little expenditure of energy.
Note: This drive assumes you are coming from a Kohala Coast resort, heading across to Hilo (see my itinerary) by way of the coastline (i.e. not cutting across Saddle Road; see that itinerary), and want to stay on the Hamakua Coast. If you plan to drive from Hilo and end up in North Kohala, I’ve given you a dinner option in Waimea and one in Kohala (depending on how late it is). See Pro Tips for another Kohala lodging option and/or dive deeper into the North Kohala itinerary.
Waimea, HI, USA
Old Mamalahoa Highway, Waimea, HI, USA
Waipio Valley Lookout, Kukuihaele, HI, USA
Honokaa, HI, USA
‘Akaka Falls, Hawaii, USA
Saddle Road Junction, HI, USA
Hilo, HI, USA
Hawaiian Style Cafe - Waimea, Kawaihae Road, Waimea, HI, USA
Waimea Coffee Company, Kawaihae Road, Waimea, HI, USA
Kalopa State Recreation Area, Kalaniai Road, Honokaa, HI, USA
Tex Drive-In, Pakalana Street, Honokaa, HI, USA
Cafe il Mondo, Mamane Street, Honokaa, HI, USA
Laupahoehoe Beach Park, Hawaii 19, Laupahoehoe, HI, USA
Botanical World Adventures, Old Mamalahoa Highway, Hakalau, HI, USA
Honomu, HI, USA
Akaka Falls State Park, Hawaii, USA
Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden, Mamalahoa Highway, Papaikou, HI, USA
CanoeHouse, Mauna Lani Drive, Waimea, HI, USA
Merrimans, Waimea, HI, USA
Waipiʻo Wayside Bed & Breakfast, Honokaa-Waipio Road, Honokaa, HI, USA
Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection, Mauna Lani Drive, Waimea, HI, USA
Mauna Kea, Hawaii, USA
Fairmont Orchid, North Kaniku Drive, Waimea, HI, USA
Best Places for Breakfast in The Big Island
Hawaiian Style Cafe
In Waimea: Immerse yourself in the local breakfast culture at the Hawaiian Style Cafe. Their massive portions of classic island dishes like the Fried Rice Loco Moco offer a taste of Hawaiian comfort food at its finest. The cafe’s kitschy decor offers a welcoming vibe that adds to the authentic Hawaiian experience.
Waimea Coffee Company
In Waimea: Experience the joy of a leisurely island morning at Waimea Coffee Company. This favorite stands out with its selection of Kona coffee, locally sourced and freshly brewed, best enjoyed with their famous Banana Bread French Toast. The decor is rustic/modern decor and the staff is friendly. It’s your choice of indoor or outdoor seating.
Best Things To Do in the Morning in The Big Island
Explore Waimea
See my itinerary which includes Waimea for suggestions.
Waipi‘o Valley
Note: the Valley is closed to all but locals. Still, stop at the overlook and imagine what’s down, down beyond. Also, it might open before I can let you know…
That said, this sacred valley, a veritable Garden of Eden, is easily one of the five or six most remote places in the entire archipelago. It’s ethereal — with wild horses roaming free, a 1,200-foot waterfall, plenty of streambeds, and a black sand beach from which surfing is fun for experienced riders only. Switchback trails are barely perceptible on the opposite valley wall, where the cliffs reach about 2,000 feet. It’s about 1 mile wide and 6 miles long.
It’s said that between A.D. 1200 and 1600, between 4,000 and 20,000 people lived here. Once the highly favored haunt of ancient Hawaiian royalty (many of whom are buried here), this is where the future King Kamehameha was whisked off to mature in safety — and to gain the requisite training that would make him a great warrior. When Caucasian explorers “discovered” it in 1823, only about 1,500 Hawaiians lived here, farming taro and harvesting bananas, guava, and other fruit from the abundant landscape. In 1946 a tidal wave rushed in and wiped out the place.
Honoka‘a
One of little Honoka‘a’s claims to fame is that the island’s first macadamia nuts were planted here. It then bustled with life from the sugar plantations. Now this funky and sleepy little town feels very “real.” Its western-style storefronts and boardwalks hold a few mellow cafés and mom-and-pop antique stores.
Also stop at Kalopa State Park, a few miles off Hwy. 19 in Honoka‘a. This 100-acre forest of eucalyptus, ‘ohi‘a, and koa trees makes a nice picnic stop. And there’s an easy 0.75-mile trail here, perfect for stretching your legs.
Best Places for Lunch in The Big Island
Tex Drive-In
Join the locals at Tex Drive-In in Honoka‘a for the Big Island’s best malasadas, basically a fried dough dessert that’s the equivalent of a hole-less doughnut, either plain or stuffed with something sweet like papaya jam. Have ’em as a meal or have one after a plate lunch, chicken katsu, saimin, or a wrap. This institution is as much an attraction as a fast-food restaurant; you can also watch the malasadas being made.
Cafe Il Mondo
This family-owned gem in the heart of Honoka‘a is loved for its authentic, thin-crust pizzas, made fresh to order in their brick oven. I’m particularly fond of the pesto chicken pizza. The restaurant’s modest and homely decor is welcoming; take your time. Dine in or take your pizza to go, the quality of ingredients and the warmth of service are impressive.
Best Things To Do in the Afternoon in The Big Island
Scenic Drives & Choices
Laupahoehoe Beach Park, makai, off Hwy. 19. This little peninsula, shaped like a lava leaf and hence the name Laupahoehoe, has a sad story. The 1946 tidal wave rolled in and swept 21 schoolchildren and their three teachers out to sea. It’s not a place for swimming, but the light is particularly lovely in the late afternoon.
Take Heritage Drive, makai, just south of Papa‘aloa, Hwy. 19, and the 3-mile Scenic Drive, mauka, between Ninole and Hakalau, off Hwy. 19, to get even closer to the lush nature of this area.
World Botanical Adventures, mauka, near MM 16 off Hwy 19, Umauma. Purported to be the largest of its ilk in the state, this former sugarcane plantation, which occupies 275 acres, has more than 5,000 species of plants cultivated within a 10-acre area. The ever-evolving place has ziplining, a giant hedge maze, a segway tour, bikes, and interesting medicinal plants. You can also see the trilevel Umauma Falls from here. An easy 0.25-mile walk through the rainforest leads to a great viewing area.
Akaka Falls & More Choices
This teensy Honomu, mauka, 2 miles off Hwy. 19, with tin-roofed houses, a café, an old plantation store, and a gallery or two, makes a nice interlude on the way to or from Akaka Falls.
Akaka Falls State Park, mauka, 3.5 miles off Hwy. 19, just past Honomu. About 10 miles from Hilo, this park actually has two falls: Akaka (measuring 442 feet) and Kahuna (about 400 feet). A paved, 1-mile path (steep in a few places but hardly impossible) leads through thick stands of ginger and yellow- and green-striped bamboo; a few banyan trees are thrown in for good measure.
Four-Mile Scenic Drive, makai, between Pepe‘ekeo and Onomea, off Hwy. 19. Take this little detour (also known as Old Mamalahoa Highway.) that runs more or less parallel to Hwy. 19 to enjoy better views of Onomea Bay and the quaint town of Pepe‘ekeo.
Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Gardens, Papa‘ikou, is off the Four-Mile Scenic Drive and about 8 miles north of Hilo. This 17-acre preserve is lined with walkways and lush with banyan and banana trees, orchid and bromeliad collections, streams, and waterfalls. In fact, there are almost 2,000 different kinds of plants and flowers, and trees.
Best Places for Dinner in The Big Island
CanoeHouse
Get ready for an amazing dining experience at the open-air CanoeHouse, located in the stunning Mauna Lani resort., and overlooking the Pacific. The menu, led by Executive Chef Mark Libunao, highlights the bounty of Hawaii’s land and sea. Standout dishes include Kona kampachi crudo and dry-aged ribeye, showcasing a perfect blend of local flavors and sophisticated culinary techniques. The restaurant’s elegant, island-inspired decor exudes a tranquil yet luxurious vibe.
Merriman's Waimea
Merriman’s Waimea is an exquisite dining experience. This culinary institution has been serving farm-to-table cuisine for more than 30 years. Led by Chef Peter Merriman, one of the founders of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement, the menu highlights fresh, locally sourced ingredients in dishes such as the macadamia nut-crusted monchong. The restaurant’s upscale rustic decor reflects the richness of the local culture, providing a warm and inviting dining environment. The staff is attentive and knowledgeable, exuding the spirit of Hawaiian hospitality.
Best Places to Stay in The Big Island
Waipi‘o Wayside Bed & Breakfast Inn
When you’re ready for a real bed & breakfast experience, the plantation-style Waipi‘o Wayside Bed & Breakfast Inn, near Honoka‘a, is a great choice. Perched on a beautiful lawn, with a white picket fence in front and views of the water, it serves as a prime base for exploring the area and visiting the funky little town of Honoka‘a. Surprise, surprise: the most popular room is the largest room with ocean views. Another upstairs room has sloped ceilings, great for those who like a cozy, attic feel.
Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection
Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection offers am immersive stay marked by unparalleled luxury and tranquility. This oceanfront resort has been tastefully designed to embody the spirit of the Hawaiian heritage, with contemporary Hawaiian decor that reflects the island’s natural beauty. Come for stunning white sand beaches, award-winning golf courses, and the holistic Mauna Lani Spa. Stay for rejuvenation. The rooms and suites boast private lanais offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. The resort’s commitment to sustainability and preservation of Hawaiian culture sets it apart.
After Dark in The Big Island
Star Gazing
Although our whole ethos is Slow Down, See More, sometimes you want to See More… In that case, see our itinerary on Mauna Kea to wrap your day with mesmerizing stargazing. It’s one of the best astronomical viewing spots on the planet.
Bonus Pro Tips
Another Fabulous Kohala Resort Option:
Fairmont Orchid — Immerse yourself in tropical luxury at the Orchid, a luxurious oceanfront oasis on the Kohala Coast. This resort spans 32 acres of lush gardens and seamlessly blends Hawaiian elegance with modern comfort. Each room boasts private lanais with garden, mountain, or ocean views. Resort amenities include a sandy lagoon beach, oceanfront pool, tennis courts, and a state-of-the-art fitness center. The Spa Without Walls is a highlight, offering rejuvenating treatments in outdoor waterfall huts. Six on-site dining options serve a diverse range of cuisines. A commitment to preserving the local culture and environment shines through in their various sustainability initiatives.
Drive Times:
Kailua-Kona to Waimea: 40 miles, about 50 minutes
Waimea to Waipi‘o Valley: 30 minutes
Waipi‘o Valley to Hilo: about 45 minutes
Waimea to Hilo: 54 miles, about 75 minutes
