North Kohala is a relatively small peninsula on a Big Island map, but you could spend weeks probing its layers of diversity — from the lush verdant trails with striking views of dramatic sea cliffs to laid-back towns steeped in history.
The Hawaii region’s principal town is a fast-growing place — with well-off residents and a decided paniolo atmosphere that sits at a 2,500-foot elevation and cannot decide its name. The post office calls it Kamuela, Hawaiian for “Samuel,” in honor of Samuel Parker, grandson of the founder of the region’s Parker Ranch. But most residents refer to it as Waimea, its original appellation and the one I use. Whatever you call the burg, it makes a fine base for exploration.
The King’s spirit is present throughout the Kohala region. His birthplace is marked near the 1,500-year-old Mo‘okini Heiau, and just down the coast is the Pu‘ukohola Heiau National Historic Site, where he started his conquest and unification of the islands.
Sugar was once also king in Kohala; in its heyday, there were seven plantations. The former sugar towns of Hawi and Kapa‘au, although only a few blocks long and lined with old wooden buildings, are well worth poking around. Know that while the northwestern territory is arid, the northern shore can be surprisingly hot and humid.
You’ll need to make serious choices with your time today — and maybe even turn this itinerary into two days — as there are so many experiences from which to choose.
Kamuela, HI, USA
Waimea Bay
Waimea, HI, USA
Mo'okini Heiau, Hawi, HI, USA
Pu'ukohola Heiau National Historic Site, Kawaihae Road, Waimea, HI, USA
Hawi, Hawaii, USA
Kapaau, HI, USA
Lapakahi State Historical Park, Hawaii 270, Waimea, HI, USA
Manuela Malasada Co, Puako Beach Drive, Waimea, HI, USA
Kohala Coffee Mill, Akoni Pule Highway, Hawi, HI, USA
Pololū Valley Lookout, Akoni Pule Highway, Kapaau, HI, USA
Bamboo Restaurant & Gallery, Akoni Pule Highway, Hawi, HI, USA
Kohala Grown Market, Akoni Pule Highway, Hawi, HI, USA
King Kamehameha Statue, Akoni Pule Highway, Kapaau, HI, USA
Kohala Mountain Road, Waimea, HI, USA
Parker Ranch, Mamalahoa Highway, Waimea, HI, USA
Donnelly Hale, Mana Place, Waimea, HI, USA
Imiola Congregational Church, Mamalahoa Highway, Waimea, HI, USA
Merriman's Big Island, Opelo Road, Waimea, HI, USA
The Fish And The Hog, Hawaiʻi Belt Road, Waimea, HI, USA
Kamuela Inn, Kawaihae Road, Waimea, HI, USA
Hilton Grand Vacations Club Kohala Suites Waikoloa, Waikōloa Beach Drive, Waikoloa Village, HI, USA
Kahilu Theatre Foundation, Lindsey Road, Waimea, HI, USA
Kawaihae Harbor, Hawaii, USA
W. M. Keck Observatory Headquarters, Mamalahoa Highway, Waimea, HI, USA
Before Breakfast in The Big Island
Pu‘ukohola Heiau National Historic Site
It was prophesied that if King Kamehameha I would build this coastal heiau, he’d conquer and unify the Hawaiian Islands. He did (in 1790–91) and he did (in 1810). It was also suggested by the prophets that he needed to sacrifice his adversary on this huge stone platform for the same reason. Thus, he invited his cousin to the temple’s dedication, killed him, and proceeded with his campaign to control the islands. Ironically, this heiau overlooks another, Mailekini, built earlier in the 1200s to honor peace between the Big Island and Maui. The site sits about one mile south of Kawaihae. Come early in the day to beat the sun.
Lapakahi State Historical Park
Although it’ll be hot and parched (with no relief in the form of shade), you should take one of the short, mile-long trails to this mid-14th-century fishing village, Koai‘e, the island’s best preserved. You’ll see only stonewalls and ruins, but there are good interpretive displays on shelters, fishing, legends, and such. Sections of Lapakahi State Historical Park are sacred, so walk with respect. Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon to beat the heat, and do yourself another favor by wearing sturdy shoes.
Best Places for Breakfast in The Big Island
Manuela Malasadas
Treat yourself to a sugary delight at Manuela Malasadas, a gem hidden in Waimea. This small, charming, roadside stand is famous for its Portuguese-style donuts — light, fluffy, and coated in sugar. Served hot and fresh, they come with a variety of fillings, from traditional custard to local flavors like guava and lilikoi.
Kohala Coffee Mill
The welcoming Kohala Coffee Mill in Hawi (there’s also one in Waimea) is known for quality Kona coffee and light breakfast options like pastries, muffins, and tropical fruit smoothies. Try the popular loco moco burrito. Whether you need a quick caffeine fix or a leisurely breakfast, the Coffee Mill makes a good pit stop.
Best Things To Do in the Morning in The Big Island
Mo‘okini Heiau
Dedicated to the god of war, Ku, this National Historic Landmark dates back to A.D. 480 and is the state’s oldest and largest. Mo‘okini Heiau is highly sacred. Said to have been built by 18,000 workers who passed stones one by one along a 14-mile trail from the Pololu Valley to here, the three-tiered temple was also used for human sacrifices by Tahitian priests a few hundred years later. Additionally, the future King Kamehameha I was born in 1750 about 1,000 yards from here. The heiau is located about 1.5 miles down an unpaved road that requires a 4W drive.
Pololu Valley Hike
Find the Pololu Valley Lookout where Hwy. 270 abruptly ends in Kapa‘au. Where the lush cliffs and steep jagged mountains fall into a swirling ocean. It’s thought that in the fifth century, lava rocks from this valley were used to build the Mo‘okini Heiau. If you look with attention, you can see waterfalls that originate from the same source that fed the Kohala Ditch, the ditch that irrigated sugarcane and allowed the industry to flourish. This 2.5-mile round-trip trail takes you through lush vegetation to a dramatic black-sand beach. Give it a couple of hours.
Best Places for Lunch in The Big Island
Bamboo Restaurant
Located in a restored plantation building in Hawi, Bamboo Restaurant offers a delightful fusion of Asian and Hawaiian cuisines. The decor is eclectic, with tropical-themed artwork and vintage bamboo furnishings reflecting the town’s charm. Try the seared ahi sashimi salad or the Thai coconut ginger chicken. And if you are up for day drinking try something from the creative cocktail menu, perhaps a lilikoi margarita. I appreciate their commitment to sustainability and locally sourced ingredients.
Kohala Grown Market
Kohala Grown Market in Hawi embraces a farm-to-table concept and also serves made-to-order meals. Sandwiches and salads are the stars here, with ingredients sourced directly from Kohala farms. I like the avocado BLT and the Big Island beet salad. Shopping here also offers a chance to try local products and artisanal goods. It will connect you with the land and its people.
Best Things To Do in the Afternoon in The Big Island
You’ll have to make a choice again, if you are slowing down, seeing more.
Explore Hawi & Kapa‘au
Hawi and Kapa‘au, two former sugar plantation towns, are chock-full of Western-style buildings that have been restored and resurrected as galleries, shops, and cafés.
The 8.5-foot-high King Kamehameha Statue, on Hwy. 270 in Kapa‘au, towers over its onlookers with outstretched arms. It came here in a roundabout way. An American sculptor cast it in Europe in 1880, but it was lost when the transport ship carrying it sank off the coast of the Falkland Islands. A replacement was soon recast and took its place of honor in front of Ali‘ioni Hale in Honolulu. As the story goes, the original was found in a junkyard and shipped here, near the king’s birthplace. On King Kamehameha Day (June 11), enormous leis are draped from the statue.
Take the Kohala Mountain Road, Hwy. 250. It always seems superfluous to designate Hawai‘i roads as scenic—because they all are. Still, are more scenic than others. This is one. When heading to Waimea (or even back down the Kohala Coast), this alternate route is about 22 miles from Hawi to Waimea. On a clear day, you can see Kawaihae Harbor and the Kohala Coast resorts from here, although the road is often shrouded in mist. The curvy road offers sweeping vistas, rolling hills, loads of ironwood trees, casuarina pine trees, and cattle — which replaced cane as the industry of choice.
Explore Waimea
Waimea (aka Kamuela) is rainbow country, an old cowboy town with horseback riding, but also one where new housing developments are threatening to impact the very charming reasons why the newcomers wanted to settle here in the first place.
Parker Ranch in Waimea sprawls around the rural and rolling pastures of the peninsula, from the ocean to the slopes of Mauna Kea, which dominates the southern perspective. The largest family-owned ranch in the U.S., the Parker spread has a colorful history dating back to Kamehameha the Great.
In 1809, New Englander John Parker went AWOL from his ship and soon found himself cleaning the fishponds and tending the cattle of King Kamehameha; he conveniently married the king’s granddaughter and ended up with some acres of his own. The ranch was formally established in 1847, and today it consists of 130,000 acres (one of the largest in the U.S.); more than 10,000 female cows; and about 40 paniolo (cowboys) who work the ranch, which is overseen by a trust.
The museum holds artifacts and photographs pertaining to six generations of Parkers that illuminate the family and life on the ranch. Two historic homes are located nearby. Mana Hale, a rustic New England saltbox-style house made from koa, was built in 1874 and served as the original family residence. It’s almost hard to appreciate so much koa, which was used for the bed headboard, walls, ceilings, and floors. Pu‘uopelu was built later by other Parker descendants and houses an impressive collection of works by European masters like Pissarro, Degas, and Renoir along with priceless objets d’art from Japan and China. The ranch hosts a rodeo on July 4 if you are here.
‘Imiola Congregational Church dates to 1857 and is particularly noteworthy for its beautiful koa interior and the koa calabashes that are suspended from the ceiling.
Best Places for Dinner in The Big Island
Merriman's Waimea
Merriman’s Waimea is an exquisite dining experience. This culinary institution has been serving farm-to-table cuisine for more than 30 years. Led by Chef Peter Merriman, one of the founders of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement, the menu highlights fresh, locally sourced ingredients in dishes such as the macadamia nut-crusted monchong. The restaurant’s upscale rustic decor reflects the richness of the local culture, providing a warm and inviting dining environment. The staff is attentive and knowledgeable, exuding the spirit of Hawaiian hospitality.
The Fish and the Hog
Dine at The Fish and the Hog in Waimea for authentic barbecue dishes alongside locally caught seafood. Standouts include baby back ribs and fresh catch tacos. The rustic, barn-style decor is perfectly matched for comfort food — as do the craft beers and signature cocktails. The combo of Southern flair and Hawaiian hospitality seem made for each other, like peanut butter and chocolate.
Best Places to Stay in The Big Island
Kamuela Inn
If you want to stay in Waimea to explore more deeply, and more authentically, the upcountry charm of Kamuela Inn makes for a great spot. This boutique inn/motel has well-appointed rooms featuring unique, locally made Hawaiian quilts and artwork. The inn’s location in the heart of Waimea translates to easy access for local shops, restaurants, and attractions.
Hilton Grand Vacations Club Kohala Suites Waikoloa
We know about the famed resorts of the Kohala Coast, but what about bigger spaces that also offer personalized service and comforts? Hilton Grand Vacations Club Kohala Suites, in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, features suites with fully equipped kitchens, private balconies, and stunning views of the golf course and the Pacific Ocean. Amenities include pools, tennis courts, and a fitness center. Its prime location allows easy access to the island’s best beaches, golf courses, shopping, and dining.
After Dark in The Big Island
Kahilu Theatre
If you’re staying in Waimea, check out what’s on at the intimate Kahilu Theatre, the only real performing arts venue of its ilk on the island. The cultural hub hosts music concerts and dance performances as well as visual arts exhibitions and educational programs. If something’s being staged here, it’s probably worth seeing. Local talent and international artists come through here.
Bonus Pro Tips
Keck Observatory: If you don’t make it up to the observatory on Mauna Kea, you can always stop in at the Keck Observatory Control Center in Waimea!
Headed from here to a Kohala Coast resort? We have some additional overview info to help and an itinerary for the Kohala Coast.
