Every Hawai‘i and Big Island visitor needs to experience the drama and power of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. There are few places on earth to feel Mother Nature so acutely. You can literally see her growing, smell her sulfurous belching, and touch her elemental heat. Creation happens here. Drive along Crater Rim Road and stop at the Thurston Lava Tube, Devastation Trail, and the Halemaumau overlook.
Serious and Sunday hikers will find enough trails to keep them occupied for several days. The park has it all: steaming, gaping crevasses, moonlike surfaces, lava tubes, cinder cones, steam vents, rainforest retreats, ohelo berries favored by Pele, and hapu‘u ferns. Check lava updates here.
Mystical Volcano Village has Japanese roots but also attracts off-the-grid types, artists, and New Agers who want to be left alone to do their thing. They’re invisibly tucked back in residential areas camouflaged by tree ferns and a constant gentle mist. Other than that, the village has a few restaurants, two tiny convenience stores, and charming vacation rentals. Situated at 4,000 feet, it’s chilly here at night, so remember to pack a sweater. (On a personal note, quirky Volcano Village is my favorite place in the entire state, and I was fortunate to spend 18 months during the pandemic here.)
Kīlauea Visitor Center, National Park, Crater Rim Drive, Volcano, HI, USA
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, HI, USA
Puʻu ʻŌʻō, Hawaii, USA
Eagle's Lighthouse Cafe, Haunani Road, Volcano, HI, USA
Kilauea Lodge and Restaurant, Old Volcano Road, Volcano, HI, USA
Crater Rim Drive @ Visitors Center $15 fee paid to the Park required, Hawaii, USA
Kīlauea Crater, Hawaii, USA
Kīlauea Iki, Hawaii, USA
Halema‘uma‘u Crater, Hawaii, USA
Devastation Trail, Crater Rim Drive, Volcano, HI, USA
Thurston Lava Tube, Hawaii, USA
Chain of Craters Road, Hawaii, USA
Cafe Ono, Old Volcano Road, Volcano, HI, USA
Aunty Pon's Thai Food Truck, Wright Road, Volcano, HI, USA
Kipuka Puaulu Trail, Mauna Loa Road, Volcano, HI, USA
Pu'u Loa Petroglyphs Trail, Pāhoa, HI, USA
Volcano Art Center - Hale Ho'omana, Old Volcano Road, Volcano, HI, USA
Thai Thai Bistro and Bar, Old Volcano Road, Volcano, HI, USA
ʻŌhelo Café, Haunani Road, Volcano, HI, USA
Volcano Village Estates, Hale Ohia Road, Volcano, HI, USA
Kilauea Lodge and Restaurant, Old Volcano Road, Volcano, HI, USA
Kilauea Military Camp, Crater Rim Drive, Volcano, HI, USA
Ka Lae, Hawaii, USA
Punalu'u Bake Shop, Mamalahoa Highway, Naalehu, HI, USA
Green Sand Beach Trailhead, Naalehu, HI, USA
Kipuka Puaulu Trail, Mauna Loa Road, Volcano, HI, USA
Nechung Dorje Drayang Ling, Wood Valley Temple & Retreat, Wood Valley Road, Pahala, HI, USA
Before Breakfast in The Big Island
Kilauea Visitor's Center
Life rarely gets more elemental than at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. It’s the only volcanic rainforest park in the country. As is true in most U.S. national parks, most visitors simply drive along the paved roads and rarely get out of the car. But to fully feel its power, you need to feel the heat and smell the sulfur. The park measures about 350 or so square miles and has upward of 150 miles of hiking trails. It’s also without state peers — as far as natural attractions are concerned. More than 2 million people visit annually. Established as a national park in 1916, the area has received tourists since the mid-1800s.
An invaluable resource, the visitor’s center has mountains of information on ranger-led walks, current eruptions, native flora and fauna, and local geology. You might even refer to yourself as an amateur volcanologist upon departure. Park rangers are the source of hiking information. Don’t miss the film on recent eruptions, which is shown hourly and is particularly illuminating. Folks with respiratory or heart problems and pregnant women should take particular caution and avoid some areas. Backcountry permits are required to remain overnight in the park and camp.
Eruptions are on every visitor’s mind. When Kilauea spews molten lava, primarily from the Pu‘u O‘o vent, it’s not the fiery and fast stuff that folks run from; they actually run to it — to bear witness, to photograph it, to stand in awe of something that’s truly awesome. Since January 3, 1983, Kilauea has crawled over and consumed more than 15,000 acres and added another 500-plus. (She’s constantly taking and giving.) Her eruptions have covered beaches, villages, roads, a visitor’s center (in 1989), churches, and about 200 homes. People have died walking on hardened (and hollow) lava, but no one has died by being in Kilauea’s direct path. No one knows when she will cease gurglings. By way of comparison, Mauna Loa last erupted in 1984, but prior to that she’d been dormant for nine years. She hasn’t spoken since.
There are two principal types of lava: pahoehoe (pronounced pa-HOY-hoy), which looks like curled rope and is the result of a fast flow, and a‘a (pronounced AH-ah), which looks like torn-up asphalt and results from a slow flow.
Best Places for Breakfast in The Big Island
Eagles Lighthouse Cafe
Eagles Lighthouse Cafe is a delightful family-run cafe, and its rustic, homey decor exudes a warm, welcoming vibe. They are best known for freshly brewed Kona coffee and homemade pastries. Try their Volcano breakfast sandwich, a hearty treat filled with egg, cheese, and your choice of meat. Also, don’t miss their lilikoi butter, which adds a tropical twist to any of their baked goods.
Kilauea Lodge
Kilauea Lodge, complete with a lava rock fireplace and local art, exudes a rustic charm. Their menu combines traditional Hawaiian dishes and classic breakfast favorites — and always locally sourced Kona coffee. Try their Volcano pancakes, light and fluffy, topped with local tropical fruits. Or, for a heartier option, try the loco moco, a Hawaiian comfort food classic. Pop into Suzie’s well-curated gift shop.
Best Things To Do in the Morning in The Big Island
Crater Rim Drive
This 11-mile loop drive takes in spectacularly expansive vistas and circles sulfur banks (which smell like rotten eggs), steam vents (which really lend the impression that the earth is breathing), and huge deserts of lava.
Kilauea Caldera: This active area measures about 2.5 miles long, 2 miles wide, and 400 feet deep, but you can hike within and around it.
Kilauea Iki Trail: This 4-mile, 2-hour trek starts in a lush fern forest at the visitor’s center but descends onto the floor of Kilauea Iki, which erupted for a month or so in 1959.
Halema‘uma‘u Overlook: Peer into the 1,000-foot-deep steaming fire pit and across its half-mile width and imagine Pele living here. And don’t forget to pull your jaw up off the ground as you stand in awe. The 3.5-mile (one-way) Halema‘uma‘u Trail departs from the visitor’s center and descends into and crosses the pit. This is a great hike, but bring plenty of water and sunscreen.
Devastation Trail: Kilauea Iki’s 1959 eruption ripped through this former ohi‘a forest and took no prisoners; the barren trees are merely empty shells, bleached and barkless bones. It’s haunting. Don’t miss taking the 30-minute walk along [a one-mile paved route (round-trip).
Thurston Lava Tube: After so much unrelenting sun on the crater rim, this shady, cool, and moist spot comes as a relief. The tube, with a 10-foot-high clearance so you can easily walk through it (without a flashlight), was formed when its top and outer layers cooled as lava continued running like a stream through its center. The fern forest surrounding it is thick with singing birds. Head half a mile farther into the tube if you have a flashlight.
Chain of Craters Road: This dramatic 22-mile road descends from the crater’s rim at 4,000 feet and dead-ends at sea level, passing old roads covered by lava flows. It takes at least two hours to drive up and back, and much longer if you stop along the way — which you will! (There are no services.)
Pu‘u Loa Petroglyphs, between MM 15 and 16, Hwy. 11, is an easy 30-minute, boardwalk loop trail (two miles) that will reward you with carvings and pictograms of people and animals. It’s a sacred spot, used by ancient Hawaiians for burying the umbilical cords of their babies.
Best Places for Lunch in The Big Island
Cafe Ono
Cafe Ono is situated in a restored greenhouse orchid nursery. Its charming, artsy decor and lush surroundings will transport you to a different world. Their vegetarian and vegan menu pays homage to Hawaii’s organic bounty. And their signature avocado and cream cheese sandwich, paired with their famous lilikoi cheesecake, are satisfying. Before leaving, check out their gallery featuring local art.
Aunty Pon's Thai Food Truck
Aunty Pon’s Thai Food Truck serves some of the most authentic Thai food on the Big Island. The unassuming food truck draws folks with its aromatic dishes and welcoming service. Their menu features classic Thai fare, prepared fresh and seasoned to perfection. The pad Thai and green curry come highly recommended by regulars. Despite its humble setting, Aunty Pon’s delivers a bold and satisfying flavor experience.
Best Things To Do in the Afternoon in The Big Island
South of the Park
Kipuka Puaulu is south on Hwy. 11 from the park and then right on Mauna Loa Rd. This self-guided, 1-mile walk leads to a forest oasis not consumed by lava streams. Also known as “Bird Park,” the 100-acre sanctuary provides a rich habitat for native birds and uncommon flora. A trailhead display identifies what you should be looking for. Go early in the morning or toward dusk for the best sightings.
Ka’u Desert Footprints Trailhead, south on Hwy.11, is 3.9 miles out and back. The region is hauntingly beautiful; take the trail to get a sense of the desolation, expanse, and quiet.
Wood Valley Temple Retreat, off Hwy. 11 in Pahala, is a serene and tranquil Tibetan Buddhist retreat center. Established in 1973 and dedicated by His Holiness the Dalai Lama in 1980, the 25-acre plot of paradise offers guests the chance to meditate and contemplate Buddhist teachings. Come for a full-blown retreat or just a few quiet days of solitude. The guest house is tucked into a fragrant eucalyptus forest.
Volcano Art Center
There’s nothing like a good volcano — mixed with a dose of Pele’s powerful mythology — to inspire artists and craftspeople. The Volcano Art Center (adjacent to the visitor’s center) is the cultural nexus of the village’s artistic expression. It’s all about the power of the volcano here. In addition to educational exhibits, look for expressions in paint, jewelry, block prints, koa, watercolors, and more. The center carries the largest selection of artists on the island.
Best Places for Dinner in The Big Island
Thai Thai Bistro & Bar
Thai Thai — pleasant and friendly — offers dependable standbys like pad Thai, along with chicken satay, myriad tasty stir-fries, lots of dishes with coconut milk, and mahimahi that’s spiced up with your choice of five different curries. Like the other places in town, this is a good place for solo diners.
Ohelo Cafe
Ohelo Cafe transitions effortlessly from a casual lunch spot to a rustic and intimate dinner venue as the day winds down. The twinkling lights create a relaxed, inviting atmosphere. It’s also usually packed. Order a delish wood-fired pizza, pesto pasta with grilled shrimp, or oven-roasted chicken. The wine list is extensive. I ordered from Ohelo Cafe a couple of times a week during the pandemic and never grew tired of them.
Best Places to Stay in The Big Island
Volcano Village Estates
These historic and contemporary accommodations, and a 1931 main house, are magically hidden from the road and surrounded by two acres of botanical-style Japanese gardens and native Ohia trees. Each charming rental has a unique layout and decor featuring Hawaiian-inspired designs. Some have a full kitchen or jacuzzi or cozy fireplace; all have large windows to take in the beautiful estate that abuts the National Park. Volcano Village Estates is more than a place to stay. It offers a unique experience of living in sync with the slow-paced, peaceful lifestyle of Volcano Village.
Kilauea Lodge
The landmark Kilauea Lodge, in the heart of Volcano Village, makes for an inviting and homey retreat. This historic property was originally a YMCA camp and now serves as a charming lodge with rustic yet elegant decor, featuring native Hawaiian art and fireplaces. The rooms are thoughtfully designed and provide all the requisite modern amenities. The Lodge, with a friendly staff, is famed for its on-site restaurant that serves hearty breakfasts and gourmet dinners.
After Dark in The Big Island
Nightime lava viewing
Bring a healthy dose of awe. Since Mother Nature isn’t predictable, I suggest calling the visitor’s center, consulting this website, or reading the bulletin board at the visitor’s center (a decidedly low-tech but effective approach) to find out if the lava flow is visible, where it’s located, how far a walk it requires, and how to reach it.
When it flowed off Hwy. 130 at the end of the road past Pahoa, the lava looked like it was crawling to the sea. It seemed compelled to do so, like something returning home.
Bowling
Looking for a fun, laid-back activity after dinner? Head to the Kilauea Military Camp for a game of 10-pin bowling. Despite its military association, the facility is open to the public and provides shoe rental and a bonafide snack bar/gill. The experience will add a unique twist to your Volcano Village visit.
Bonus Pro Tips
Getting around: Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is about 30 miles (45 minutes) from Hilo and 110 miles (2 1⁄2 to 3 hours) from Kailua-Kona. The park is quite easy to navigate. The village, laid out in a grid pattern, is just a mile from the national park entrance.
If you are headed to Hilo, check out my Hilo itinerary.
If you are headed to the Kohala Coast by way of the Hamakua Coast, check out my Hamakua itinerary.
If you are headed across Saddle Road, check my Mauna Kea itinerary.
Vog: When characteristically brilliant blue skies are replaced by uncharacteristically hazy gray skies, it’s a little unsettling — especially when it lingers for days. This is supposed to be paradise, after all. But what it is? It’s not fog or smog — it’s vog. What? Yup: vog. This volcanic smog is an atmospheric effect caused by sulfuric gases escaping from Big Island’s volcanic vents. In short, it’s air pollution that can have hazardous effects on people already suffering from respiratory ailments like asthma and emphysema. When the trade winds ebb during fall and winter, vog can envelop the Big Island (especially) like a soft blanket, but it’s also felt on Maui and O‘ahu. If you are easily affected by air quality, are pregnant, or have heart or respiratory trouble, you’re well advised not to visit Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, and you should think about staying indoors on bad days. It wouldn’t be enough to keep you home, though. On the upside, vog heightens the drama of sunsets along the Kona and Kohala Coasts.
Detour to the South Point Area (when you depart Volcano)
Windswept, barren, haunting, and borderline surreal, the Ka‘u District resembles little else in America. If you’re doing a circle tour of the Big Island, you can’t miss it. But neither should you miss it. It’s a land of extremes, with dense rain forests, undulating grasses, and spacious deserts with scorched earth, where lava flows tumble from the top of Mauna Loa into the ocean. In fact, the Ka‘u Desert has been subject to repeated flows.
The district is big, too, as big as the entire island of O‘ahu. Although it’s barely populated now, Ka‘u was once the most populous place on the Big Island. (What a difference a millennium makes!)
It’s a land of macadamia nut farms, old sugar towns like Pahala and Na‘alehu, little churches, friendly residents, and ancient fishing villages that date to a.d. 700 when Polynesians paddled across the Pacific (probably from Tahiti) and set foot here. It’s where you’ll find the difficult-to-access green sand beach and the southernmost point in the United States. Without a doubt, there is an inescapable end-of-the-world feel here.
It’s about an hour between Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and the turn-off for Ka Lae (South Point). It’s another 2 hours or so from the turnoff to Kailua-Kona. The Punalu‘u Bake Shop acts as an unofficial regional visitors center. Ka Lae is near MM 70; drive 12 miles makai down bumpy South Point Rd. past horses and cows and acres and acres of windswept land to the boat ramp. Park, and then walk another 2.5 miles (about one hour) over lava and pastures toward an inactive cinder cone (Pu‘u o Mahana) and Green Sand Beach. If you have a four-wheel drive, you can drive most of this 2.5-mile stretch—tough even with a four-wheel drive—but you’ll still have to clamber down the steep cliff over lava rocks to the beach. It’s relatively easier (but still very tricky) to get down at the southern end.
Use caution and wear shoes with good traction. Or just peer down onto it from above. There isn’t a sign that says you are here, at the southernmost point of the united states. But you’ll feel the remoteness of it.
Big Island Exploring: Kohala Coast Resorts