For many visitors to the Big Island, quiet Hilo is a desirable destination only in early April when the Merrie Monarch Festival exhibits the best in Hawaiian hula. The main problem is rain. As Hawai‘i residents say, people don’t tan in Hilo; they rust. Skies are often overcast; clouds bust open with heavy-duty rain or they weep with mist; the air is heavy with humidity. The upside? There’s a bonanza of rainbows, and it’s very lush.
Despite the presence of the University of Hawai‘i, the former sugar plantation town isn’t exactly exciting, either. When a freighter inadvertently dumped 900 tons of molasses into the bay in 1984, wags claimed the slow-moving solution brought the pace to a total standstill. For some reason, Hilo once thought it could be another big destination like Honolulu and built lots of high-rise hotels on the bay. But the masses never materialized, so now Hilo is a good budget destination. (There are fine and pricey B&Bs, too.)
For many visitors, Hilo simply serves as a gateway to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, about 45 minutes south.
All that said, I love this friendly town. The state’s second-largest city sits proudly on Hilo Bay, and it’s decidedly real, full of Japanese, Chinese, and Filipino former sugarcane workers and their descendants. If you aren’t in a race to notch your belt with tourist attractions, Hilo offers many moments you’ll find nowhere else. Compared with the suburban malls of Kailua-Kona, commerce in Hilo is exotically old-fashioned. Catch the state’s most stirring farmer’s market; drop into mom-and-pop shops owned by longtime Japanese immigrants; or visit Hilo’s nurseries, which grow 22,000 varieties of orchids, thanks to the rain, earning the city its title of Orchid Capital of America.
Rainbow Falls, Hilo, HI, USA
Peepee Falls, Hilo, HI, USA
Boiling Pots, Hilo, HI, USA
Banyan Drive, Hilo, HI, USA
Liliʻuokalani Gardens, Lihiwai Street, Hilo, HI, USA
Coconut Island, Hilo, HI, USA
Hilo Bay, Hawaii, USA
Moonstruck, Furneaux Lane, Hilo, HI, USA
Paul's Place, Punahoa Street, Hilo, HI, USA
Lyman Museum, Haili Street, Hilo, HI, USA
Pacific Tsunami Museum, Kamehameha Avenue, Hilo, HI, USA
Two Ladies Kitchen, Kilauea Avenue, Hilo, HI, USA
The Booch Bar, Keawe Street, Hilo, HI, USA
Puka Puka Kitchen, Kamehameha Avenue, Hilo, HI, USA
Pāhoa, HI, USA
Lava Tree State Monument, Hawaii 132, Pāhoa, HI, USA
Cape Kumukahi Lighthouse, State Hwy 132, Pāhoa, HI, USA
Pualaa, HI, USA
MacKenzie State Recreation Area, State Highway 137, Pāhoa, HI, USA
Star of the Sea Painted Church, Pahoa Kalapana Road, Pāhoa, HI, USA
Kalapana, HI, USA
Moon and Turtle, Kalakaua Street, Hilo, HI, USA
Jackie Rey's Ohana Grill Hilo, Keawe Street, Hilo, HI, USA
The Inn at Kulaniapia Falls, Kulaniapia Drive, Hilo, HI, USA
SCP Hilo Hotel, Banyan Way, Hilo, HI, USA
Pineapples Island Fresh Cuisine, Keawe Street, Hilo, HI, USA
Hilo Farmer's Market, Mamo Street, Hilo, HI, USA
Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Visitor Center, Macadamia Road, Keaau, HI, USA
Before Breakfast in The Big Island
Morning temperatures are more conducive to exploring; it gets pretty darn humid in the afternoon. Brief showers and bona fide rainstorms happen frequently, so if you have an umbrella, don’t leave it in your suitcase.
Don’t miss Rainbow Falls. Come early in the morning for the best views and chances to catch a rainbow glistening over the falls—hence its name. And don’t miss Pe‘epe‘e Falls and Boiling Pots, about 3 miles north of downtown. Four streams feed and cascade into these falls and get trapped in a jumble of rocks below, a veritable roiling cauldron.
Hilo Bay
Lili‘uokalani Gardens, a 30-acre formal Japanese garden, was developed in the early 1900s to honor Japanese sugar workers (but named in honor of the queen). It’s filled with pagodas, arched bridges, koi ponds, stone lanterns, and wooden gates. It’s particularly popular with local families on Sunday.
Banyan Drive, near the Grand Naniloa Resort, stretches out along the waterfront. This canopy of 50 or so trees with thick dangling root systems was planted from 1933 to 1972 by visiting dignitaries like Franklin D. Roosevelt, Babe Ruth, Cecil B. DeMille, Amelia Earhart, and Richard Nixon (whose tree fell to a storm; another was planted by Pat Nixon on a subsequent visit).
Coconut Island, near the Grand Naniloa Resort across from Banyan Dr., is reached via a little footbridge. The 1-acre island is a pleasant place to watch local fishermen work the waters and kids play in tide pools. On a clear day, there are unobstructed and towering views of Mauna Kea from here.
Best Places for Breakfast in The Big Island
Moonstruck
A small bakery with a big personality, Moonstruck Patisserie specializes in French pastries. This gem offers treats as pleasing to the eye as the palate. The decor, with the feel of a Parisian café, lends to the overall charm. Croissants are flaky and buttery; the pain au chocolat melts in your mouth; and the coffee is robust.
Paul's Place
Paul’s Place, intimate and upscale, is known for its gourmet approach to classic dishes. With just a few tables and an open kitchen, it often feels like you’re a guest in a private home. The decor is simple and elegant, and the menu, although limited, changes frequently based on available ingredients. Favorites include the eggs benedict with house-made hollandaise and the banana bread French toast.
Best Things To Do in the Morning in The Big Island
Downtown is charmingly quaint, full of tin-roofed houses and Victorian manses. Many buildings are on the National Register of Historic Places. Although some are ramshackle, many more house restaurants, shops, and cafés.
The Downtown Improvement Association publishes a great, self-guided historic walking tour of downtown. It’s a convenient way to organize your wanderings. Although Kamehameha Avenue is the main thoroughfare, Keawe Street is particularly representative of Hilo. Many of its 1920s and ’30s plantation-style buildings have been revitalized and rehabbed, and they stand side by side with others that haven’t.
Lyman House Museum
The Big Island’s oldest wooden structure dates to 1839, is topped with Hilo’s first corrugated tin roof, and was built by New Englanders David and Sarah Lyman, Hilo’s first missionaries. During their stay here, they met with all the important folks who came through Hilo, from Mark Twain and Robert Louis Stevenson to Hawaiian royalty. The house contains items related to their daily life, along with objects from the monarchy. The adjacent Earth Heritage Gallery is devoted to area ecology, while the Island Heritage Gallery is devoted to Hawai‘i’s cultural history, from the arrival of the Hawaiians to the impact of the island’s five ethnic immigrant groups.
Pacific Tsunami Museum
Hilo was twice devastated by tsunamis because of its location on Hilo Bay. Don’t miss this captivating and informative museum with interactive displays on the “walls of water” that rolled over Hilo in 1946 and 1960. It devastated the town and killed dozens of residents. Learn about the difference between a tidal wave and a tsunami, learn how earthquakes trigger the waves, and see what Hilo looked like before the tsunami struck. Many of the friendly staff members lived through the most recent tragedy, so they bring quite a poignant perspective.
Best Places for Lunch in The Big Island
Don’t miss the incredible mochi at Two Ladies Kitchen. Full stop.
The Booch Bar Hilo
The Booch Bar Hilo is a trendy spot that specializes in house-brewed kombucha and plant-based cuisine. The interior is modern and hip, with a splash of tropical flair, reflecting the innovative, light, health-conscious menu. Opt for a Buddha bowl or vegan pizza for a nourishing, immensely satisfying meal.
Puka Puka Kitchen
Puka Puka Kitchen is a beloved lunch spot renowned for its Asian fusion dishes. The small, unassuming restaurant features simple decor, allowing the focus to remain on the big flavors. The menu is small yet diverse, reflecting a blend of Hawaiian, Japanese, and Korean influences. The Furikake chicken plate served with a side of macaroni salad and rice is a crowd favorite. Another must-try? Their Ahi Poke Bowl with locally-sourced tuna.
Best Things To Do in the Afternoon in The Big Island
Puna District
Southeast of Hilo, the Puna District is the Big Island’s most off-the-beaten-path region. Reward yourself with half a day exploring its tide pools, pristine coastline, remote villages surrounded by lava flows, natural thermal pools, the eastern rift of Kilauea, and large swaths of tropical rainforest.
Pahoa, Hwy. 130 at Hwy. 132. With Wild West–style raised boardwalks and false-front wooden buildings, the heart of the region feels like a modern-day outpost. In addition to low-key galleries, shops, and restaurants, the town offers a natural grocer, a small market with all the right fixings for assembling a picnic when you’re in this neck of the woods.
Lava Tree State Park, Hwy. 132, 2 miles from Pahoa. The 1790 eruption of Kilauea turned a lively ‘ohi‘a forest into something that resembles a bunch of single-story smokestacks. It’s definitely worth a look.
Cape Kumukahi Lighthouse, 1.5 miles east of the intersection of Hwys. 132 and 137, Kapoho. Some say thanks to Madame Pele, this lighthouse was spared in a most unusual way during a devastating 1960 eruption: Lava flowed around the lighthouse on both sides but not through it.
Ahalanui Park (aka Pu‘ala‘a), 2.5 miles south of intersection of Hwys. 132 and 137. This 3-acre park has a large, thermally heated swimming pond. Facilities include restrooms, showers, and picnicking.
MacKenzie State Recreation Area, Hwy. 137. In addition to containing a considerable chunk of the King’s Trail (a royal transportation route), this ironwood-forested park has a dramatic rocky shore. It makes a nice location for picnicking.
Star of the Sea Painted Church, Hwy. 137. When the 1990s eruption started oozing lava, townspeople rallied to move this church from Kalapana to safer ground. It’s noteworthy for interior biblical paintings done by a Belgian missionary.
Kalapana, at the end of Hwy. 137. A 1990s volcanic eruption destroyed most of the town, and it’s still quite eerie. There’s definitely an end-of-the-road quality to it.
Best Places for Dinner in The Big Island
Moon & Turtle
Moon & Turtle exemplifies the modern, inventive dining scene in Hilo. This intimate restaurant’s decor blends minimalistic and rustic elements, creating an understated sophistication. The menu celebrates locally-sourced ingredients, with Asian-inspired dishes creatively reinterpreted with a Hawaiian twist. The Kauai shrimp & grits and the ahi belly bao buns are standouts; both showcase the chef’s ability to elevate traditional fare. The wine list is well-curated and the cocktails are inventive, too.
Jackie Reys Ohana Grill
Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill is inviting, delivering quality food and attentive service, with a side of Aloha. The restaurant has a warm, casual elegance, adorned with local art and soft lighting. The menu is diverse, featuring fresh seafood, premium steaks, and unique island-style specialties. Their Furikake ahi is a local favorite, seared to perfection and served with a flavorful ginger wasabi beurre blanc. Don’t miss the Kona Coffee Sundae for dessert.
Best Places to Stay in The Big Island
The Inn at Kulaniapia Falls
The Inn at Kulaniapia Falls provides a unique lodging experience, perched on a cliff overlooking a stunning waterfall. This property beautifully marries comfort and adventure. Rooms are stylishly appointed with Asian-inspired decor and boast serene views. The main attraction is undoubtedly the waterfall, which guests can access via a short trail. The inn’s extensive grounds also include a bamboo garden and various fruit trees. Whether you’re relaxing on your lanai, exploring the gardens, or exploring the waterfall, this makes for a memorable getaway.
SCP Hilo Hotel
The design-forward SCP Hilo Hotel brings a fresh, eco-conscious approach to accommodation. Its ethos is centered around minimalistic design, sustainability, and wellness. Rooms feature earth-toned decor and recycled materials, creating a serene, zen-like atmosphere. The rooftop pool and lounge offer panoramic views of Hilo Bay and Mauna Kea, while the onsite wellness center offers yoga and fitness classes. The hotel’s green initiatives — renewable energy and vegan food options — enhance its appeal to environmentally-conscious travelers.
After Dark in The Big Island
Pineapples Hilo
Pineapples Island Fresh Cuisine is a local hotspot, ideal for pre-or post-dinner drinks. (The food is pretty darn good, too, though!) Come for the open-air setting, tropical decor, and live music. Stay for the island-inspired cocktails — perhaps the pineapple passion. They also have local beers and well-curated wines. Service is warm and friendly.
Bonus Pro Tips
Getting around: Hilo is about 45 minutes north of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, while the Puna District is easily explored via a loop route on your way to the national park (or as a day trip from Hilo). The 25-mile route takes two to three hours, depending on how much you stop. From Hilo, take Hwy. 11 south to Pahoa, then Hwy. 132 to Hwy. 137 to the lighthouse. Head south along the shoreline on Hwy. 137, a narrow, slow, and winding road. In short, a great road. Follow it to the end and then backtrack a short distance to pick up Hwy. 130 back up to Pahoa and beyond to Hwy. 11.
Hilo Farmers Market, the best market in Hawai‘i, is a colorful collection of open-air stalls that offers everything from flowers (like orchids and anthuriums) to local products (like freshly roasted coffee beans, baked goods, and mac nuts). The latter are less expensive and much better quality than you’d get in Long’s Drugstore—which is where you should go if you can’t make it here. The market hums on Wed. and Sat. but it’s open daily as a shadow of itself. Go as early as possible on its two big days.
Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Factory, about 10 miles south of downtown off Hwy. 11. Follow rows of mac trees leading to the factory, where you can learn about the growing and processing of these addictive nuts. Watch a little film, take a self-guided tour, and do some firsthand taste testing. Free.
Astronomy: Science and star buffs should make time for the ‘Imiloa: Astronomy Center of Hawai‘i which I cover in the Mauna Kea itinerary.
Big Island Exploring: Kohala Coast Resorts